Everything about Veleia Romana, the wonderful and still little-known archaeological site located on the Piacentini Hills, in Piacenza.
The Roman historyit is a topic that we often leave on school desks, and that we think of as confined between the pages of books, in museum rooms or among the rubble of some solitary ruin. Then it happens that you travel the world and find, more or less voluntarily, vestiges of Roman settlements in absolutely unexpected places: such as theBath Spa, set in the center of a city built in very British Georgian style. In these cases, even if the story has never attracted us that much, it is inevitable that we remain fascinated by ittemporal and architectural contrastthat we find ourselves in front of, just as it is equally inevitable that this contrast awakens our curiosity. Surely this is what you would experience when you visitVeleia Romanto, wonderful and still little-known archaeological site located onPiacenza Hills, which fully deserves the nickname“Pompeii of the North”.
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Veleia is located inChero valley, in the province ofPiacenza, about 35 km from the capital. It was founded in 158 BC. C. and took its name fromVeleiates, a Ligurian tribe that inhabited the area and which, like many other populations, was subjugated by the Romans. During the imperial period this city was a highly developed center of great importance for the domination of northern Italy. Its rediscovery dates back to the 18th century, when some artefacts were accidentally found in the ground, starting with the famous oneTabula Alimentaria Traiana(which is now preserved in Parma). Excavations to unearth the site began in 1760 and were ordered byDuke Philip of Bourbon; and twenty years later the ruins will also be visited by the famous scientistAlessandro Volta. Since the 1960s, the ruins have been under state protection. This is the long history of Veleia Romana summarily summarized in a few lines. Enough to delve deeper into itvisit the museumattached to the archaeological site, small butextraordinarily richof news on this ancient city and the customs of its inhabitants.
WHAT TO SEE IN VELEIA ROMANA
As I mentioned at the beginning, the thing that struck me most about Veleia Romana at the beginning is thegreat contrastwith hergeographical location. In our imagination, when we think of Roman ruins we instinctively connect them to the Italian capital, or to areas mainly located in the south of the peninsula (such as Pompeii, perhaps the symbol par excellence in this archaeological sector). Seeing a Roman city hidden among the hills of the Piacentini Hills was surprising for me, even though I know very well that the Romans were almost everywhere and I visited several of their settlements both in Italy and abroad. But that's the beauty of travelbe surprised every timeof what you see.
And amazement is exactly what you feel when you arrive there. After passing the entrance gate, take a path that descends betweenruins of houseson one side and the remains ofcity spason the other, with the respective plants and floors all clearly visible. Here, as in the rest of the site,access to the buildings is free(except for some particularly delicate areas) and it is worth saying that you are allowed toliterally walking through history. In this area there is themuseum, which I recommend you visit immediately: in fact inside, in addition to interesting and precious finds, you will find thedetailed descriptionsof the various parts of the settlement, which will guide you in your exploration.
Once you exit the museum, head towards theHole, the focal point of daily life in Roman cities. The Forum of Veleia is trulyspectacular: the large central square is very well preserved and dotted withcolumns, commemorative plaques and monument plinths. This space is adjacent to the ruins of thetabernae, the shops of the time, while along its perimeter there are still a couple of stone tables equipped with benches, where the customers of the various businesses sat. On the opposite side, protected by canopies, you can see the floors of the buildingBasilica. Take your time towalk in silencein this place, trying to imagine it in its heyday, when it was full of people completing their business, attending a lawsuit, or simply drinking a glass ofPiacenza wine(which was already famous for its quality at the time). I assure you thatthe emotion is really strong: Veleia Romana is an incredibly archaeological sitebeautiful and charming, and it's surprising that he still isn't as famous as he deserves.
A further suggestion that I would like to give you is to visit Veleia during thebeautiful season, when the ruins aresurrounded by greenery, a detail that makes them even moresuggestive. And before you leave don't forget to take a look at the neighbor toochurch of Sant'Antonino, dating back to the 16th century and dedicated to the martyr patron of Piacenza (who was himself a Roman legionary).
HOW TO GET
To reach Veleia Romana, exit atFiorenzuola d'Arda, along the highwayA4. From Carpaneto Piacentino laSP 14it will take you towards your destination, crossing the fascinating landscape of the Piacentini Hills and crossing solitary villages located along little-frequented roads. If you are not familiar with the area it is better to set thenavigatorand pay close attention toroad signs. The entrance ticket costs2,00 €(yes, two euros, you read that right) which you pay directly to the caretaker once you arrive on site. The archaeological site isopen every day, except at Christmas and New Year. The opening hours are as follows: 01 December - 15 March from 09:00 to 15:00, the rest of the year from 09:00 to one hour before sunset.
Gianluca Vecchi
