Itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale in the footsteps of the Etruscans | Lazio

From Vulci to Ladispoli, passing through Tarquinia and Santa Marinella: here is an itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale in the footsteps of the Etruscans, our ancestors.

Along the coast ofLazio, straddling the provinces ofRome and Viterbo, two apparently different yet complementary territories extend:Tuscia and Maremma Lazio. These are areas that fall outside the mass tourist itineraries (often concentrated exclusively on Rome) which have an ancient past and a land rich in history, archaeology, food and wine and art.

I had the pleasure of exploring Tuscia and Maremma Laziale thanks toRome Experience, a tour operator that offers exclusive thematic itineraries in unique locations that are often closed to the public. Traveling through naturalistic landscapes that seemed to come out of a fairy tale and ancient villages rich in traditions and customs, I discovered the origins and history of the Etruscans, a people of ancient Italy who lived between the 9th and 1st centuries BC

Itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale in the footsteps of the Etruscans

In this article I want to leave you with the four-day itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale, in the footsteps of theEtruscans, which I followed myself with Roma Experience thanks to a project developed with the contribution of the Lazio Region.

Vulci and Tuscania

Not many people know that in the heart of Lazio, not far from Rome, there are the remains of what was one of the most important city-states of Etruria, the first stop on this itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale.

Vulci Archaeological Park

The naturalistic and archaeological park ofVulciit extends for approximately 120 hectares of land in the Maremma Laziale area and represents a unique place of its kind. Inside there are various paths that lead to the discovery of necropolises, ancient domus, temples, mounds and tombs. Absolutely worth visiting is the ancient urban area where the remains of aaqueduct, the Great Temple, theDomus of the Cryptoporticuswith a next to itMithraeum, the Fisherman's House, thePellicone lake(where some scenes from the films “We just have to cry” and “Three men and a leg” were filmed) and, in the necropolis of Ponte Rotto, theFrançois Tomb, one of the most important Etruscan monuments famous for the frescoes found inside.

The town of Vulci is also famous for its picturesque and Instagrammable natureBadia Bridge, the Castle surrounded by waters and the magnificent gorges ofFiora riverpopulated by adorable otters.

Advise!Inside the Vulci park it is possible to have lunch with a spectacular view of natureCasaletto Mengarelli. The restaurant is very suggestive and offers excellent traditional dishes. Must try the black agnus!

Tuscania

After having explored the paths of the Archaeological Park of Vulci, the itinerary in the footsteps of the Etruscans passes through the fascinating Tuscania, an ancient center of Etruria which is considered one of the most beautiful panoramas of Tuscia. Rock houses, medieval walls and majestic churches characterize the entire area. Absolutely not to be missed is the Queen's CaveRomanesque church of San Pietro, built in the 8th century after the donation of Charlemagne, and theChurch of Santa Maria Maggioreinside which there is also a Last Judgment painted by two of Giotto's pupils.

Alpaca plans, Tarquinia and Terme Taurine of Civitavecchia

Did you know that in Tarquinia, in the town of Pian d'Arcione, there is the largest alpaca farm inEurope? The second day of the itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale in the footsteps of the Etruscans begins exactly here.

Alpaca Plans

The Piani degli Alpaca farm is a true delight for the eyes and the heart... and not just for those of children. Inside it is possible to take guided tours and walks, as well as feed and play with the sweet animals from the Andes of Peru.

If you are looking for an oasis of peace where you can spend a few nights, you should also know that the farmhouse is located next to Piani degli AlpacaNavy Plans, the perfect place where you can relax immersed in nature, sipping a drink by the pool and enjoying dinners prepared directly on site by a chef.

Necropolis of Tarquinia

The itinerary in the footsteps of the Etruscans continues in the necropolis of Tarquinia, a site dating back to the 18th century, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside there are mound tombs with rooms dug into the rock whose particularity is given by theinternal frescoes. This is the highest example of painting prior to the Roman imperial age. Among the most famous tombs those of the Warrior, the Lionesses, the Leopards and the Baron stand out.

Among other things to see in Tarquinia I also recommend theNational archeologic museum, located inside Palazzo Vitelleschi, where numerous artefacts belonging to the Etruscans are preserved.

Terme Taurine (Civitavecchia)

The Terme Taurine represent the third stage of the second day of the itinerary to discover the Etruscan civilisation. It is an impressive archaeological site that stands on a hill, a few kilometers away from the city center ofCivitavecchia. The name "taurine" derives from a legend: before engaging in a fight, a bull scratched the earth bringing to light a spring of thermal water.

The first to enhance its beneficial properties were the Etruscans who built rudimentary spas which were then developed and expanded in Roman times. Today the complex is divided into Republican Baths, dating back to the 1st century BC, and Imperial Baths, built between 123 and 136 AD

Advise! Before visiting the Terme Taurine, I suggest a lunch stop - strictly fish-based - at the restaurantThe Right Tasteof Civitavecchia. The spaghettoni with clams is absolutely worth trying.

Tolfa and the Rocca Frangipane

The best way to end the day and enjoy an unparalleled sunset is to take a trip to Tolfa, a small town located in the hills of Etruria, not far from Civitavecchia. The view from Rocca Frangipane will leave you speechless. Also worth visitingChurch of Sant'Egidio Abate, the convent of the Augustinian fathers and thepalace.

Santa Severa, Pyrgi and Macchiatonda

The third day of the itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale in the footsteps of the Etruscans winds along the sea, between Santa Severa, Pyrgi and Macchiatonda.

Castle of Santa Severa

The Castle of Santa Severa rises almost on the Tyrrhenian Sea, within the municipality of Santa Marinella, and is considered a very important monument of historical and archaeological interest. Inside are housed theNational Antiquarium Museum of Pyrgi, The Museum of the Sea and Navigation, with the remains of ancient Etruscan and Roman ships, the baptistery dedicated to the Saint, numerous shops and aHostelwhich offers the magnificent experience of spending a night like real princes and princesses (an overnight stop is absolutely recommended after a sumptuous fish dinner at the nearby restaurantPine by the Sea).

Pyrgi Archaeological Park

Not everyone knows that the Santa Severa Castle stands next to thearchaeological site of Pyrgi, a prehistoric Etruscan village which, in the past, was the port of Caere (today Cerveteri). Through this important maritime hub, the city traded with the Greeks and Phoenicians. Recent excavations have brought to light the remains of the foundations of two temples (Temple A and Temple B), terracotta high reliefs and the gold plates of Pyrgi, today preserved in the National Etruscan Museum of Villa Giulia (Rome) and considered the most ancient historical source of pre-Roman Italy.

Advise!For the lunch stop, strictly with sea view, I suggest itPapeete plant in Ladispoli. Try the sea bass tartare and the spaghetti with clams (a real must in these areas).

Macchiatonda Nature Reserve

Macchiatonda, with its uncontaminated nature reserve populated by herons and wild geese, is the last stop of the day. Signed paths wind within the areaarchaeotrekking, observation huts for lovers ofbird watching and black sand beaches full of shells and marine wonders.

Necropolis of Banditaccia and Cerveteri

The last day of the itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale in the footsteps of the Etruscans is dedicated to the visit ofCerveteri, a medieval town of incredible artistic and archaeological value, and the nearby Etruscan necropolis of Banditaccia.

Cerveteri

Located north-west of Rome, Cerveteri was an ancient and important Etruscan city, then called Caere. Walking through the streets of the historic center you can only admire theRuspoli Castle, thirteenth-century fortress with a trapezoidal plan which was built in tuff, lava and brick, as well as theChurch of Santa Maria Maggiore, built on the remains of an ancient temple. A lunch stop at the Barrel Osteria in the Borgo is recommended (you will be spoiled for choice between tagliatelle and typical Roman dishes).

Necropolis of Banditaccia

The Etruscan Necropolis of Banditaccia stands on a tuff hill not far from Cerveteri. It is an archaeological site that extends over 400 hectares and which preserves more than400 moundsdating back to different historical periods, from the Villanovan to the Hellenistic.

A UNESCO heritage site since 2004, the Banditaccia represents one of the greatest Etruscan testimonies in the entire Mediterranean. Inside there are characteristic tumulus tombs with frescoed walls like that of theHut or Mengarelli mound, both cube tombs, i.e. long rows of tomb-houses lined up along sepulchral streets.

Not far from the Banditaccia Necropolis there is also theCerite National Museumwhich houses numerous Etruscan finds, including the famous and beautiful oneUrn of the Bride and Groom.

The Old Post Office and the Palo Castle

The best way to conclude the magical Roma Experience itinerary between Tuscia and Maremma Laziale in the footsteps of the Etruscans is to visit the Castello di Palo, inLadispoli, and spend a night in the splendid 5-star hotel of “La Posta Vecchia”.

Located close to the sea, with splendid rooms equipped with every comfort,The Old Post Officeit houses a real museum inside. In fact, during the restoration carried out by JP Getty, an ancient Roman villa dating back to the 2nd century AD was brought to light, the remains of which are still clearly visible. A gem that adds to the wonderful sea view, the indoor swimming pool, the rich breakfast and the restaurant which offers different and delicious meat and fish dishes every day "with attention to detail" (the desserts are also highly recommended!).

Verónica Crocitti